Hiking the Northern Way
Soto de Luiña, Spain. June 2024. On the Camino del Norte.
Deep in the lush forrests of Asturias, Spain, we hiked through the early morning rain along the Camino de Santiago. The decision to travel the northern route was based on nothing other than the desire to be close to the coast on a quieter path. As someone who always enjoyed hiking but never to an extreme like the Camino, I was daunted by the 200 miles that lay ahead of us and simultaneously overjoyed for the challenge.
I had first heard of the Camino de Santiago through Claire, my close friend who joined me on this exciting journey. We became a group of three when my cousin Sydney decided she wanted to hike the Camino with us. I couldn’t imagine two better people to take on this adventure with. The three of us set the dates for early June and planned two weeks to complete the second half of the Camino del Norte spanning from the Asturias airport in Oviedo to Santiago de Compostela. We decided to begin our trip in Barcelona; taking time to sightsee and adjust to the time change and after completing the Camino we would bus down the coast of Portugal for a week. With all our belongings for our month trip on our backs we headed for the airport. Claire, who lives in Munich, met Sydney and I at the BCN airport and the three us learned quickly that carrying 25lbs on our backs over the next month would prove harder than anticipated.
By far, my favorite moment from the trip was our third day in Spain and our first day on the Camino. We had flown from Barcelona to Oviedo and the trip was already off to a rocky start when we were forced to check our backpacks and I reluctantly sent 17 rolls of film through the security scanner. No amount of pleading with security worked and I held my breath as nearly three hundred dollars worth of film was potentially ruined. With only my passport in my pocket, my film on my lap, and my camera around my neck we boarded the plane. I didn’t even have the time to grab headphones or my journal that was buried deep in my backpack. For two hours, I stared at the seat back in front of me for the whole flight thinking about what the next few weeks would hold for us. I was nervous but at peace; I knew we were on the brink of an awesome experience. After landing came one of the funnier moments in my life when we quite literally walked away from the airport. Only a half mile away from the trail we decided to leave airport on foot and begin the hike right away. The three of us couldn’t contain our laughter at the bizarre situation we were in. There we were, three girls who don’t even hike in America, now beginning a very difficult 200 mile hike in Spain. The realization that our anticipation for the trip was over and we were actually on the hike was surreal. We completed 10 miles on the first day along forrest trails, roads, and small towns until we finished in Cudillero, Spain. We had booked only our first night’s hostel in advance and decided to find sleeping accommodations for the rest of the trip the day of. To some that may have seemed like a risky situation but the Camino had so many hostel and Albergue accommodations that I had no worries about finding a place to rest. I went to sleep that night with aching feet but a feeling of fulfillment that the first day was over.
Asturias, Spain. June 2024.
Over the next thirteen days we traveled from town to town along the northern coast of Spain. We met people from all walks of life and no one felt like a stranger. We were all on the same journey towards Santiago de Compostela and everyone we spoke with had an open heart and open mind. The spirit of the Camino, the challenge, and the community shared among hikers was truly something special. On our first day of the hike we met a man from France who had been hiking for over 70 days. He had sent home a few pounds of clothes and supplies in Bilbao, Spain and bought a guitar that he was now hiking with across the front of his body. I realized then that the Camino was not meant to be conquered but enjoyed at whatever pace we decided.
There were days we hiked over 20 miles and some we only walked eight. Our feet were blistered and sore within three days and the first aid kit became our best friend. We took more shots of espresso than we drank water and my collar bone was bruised from the weight of my pack. However, in all the physical challenges we endured, emotionally I have never been more at peace and never laughed harder. The three of us would talk throughout the day or hum songs, or practice our German for a few miles, or walk in silence.
Baby Bull Calf, Cudillero, Spain. June 2024.
I spent a lot of time thinking about my life and where I was headed. Graduating college had seemed lightyears away but the time had flown too fast. I decided my freshman year of college to save and take the year after graduation to travel and experience the world while building my photography portfolio and writing. Now that it was finally happening it was as if I had realized my dream. I felt so grateful for the opportunity to travel and for the people I was meeting along the way; more importantly for the people I had with me. I had read that the Camino is really a spiritual experience and should be done alone but I will say that traveling with others who motivate you and who help pass the time along the hike is a blessing.
The days were long but two weeks passed in the blink of an eye. Each day we hiked was filled with new people, new adventure and peace. We hiked in the pouring rain and cold days. There were uphill stretches that seemed to last forever and absolutely no chance of quitting. I had never had so much time to think and the beautiful views we encountered were truly breathtaking. When we had finally completed the Camino and finished the hike in Santiago I felt like I could keep going despite the blisters on my feet begging for a break. Looking back, my only regret is that we didn't continue on to Finisterre and walk to the edge of the earth. Many hikers on the Camino continue on the additional 60+ miles to walk the ancient pagan route to the end of the earth. I guess now I have an excuse to go back and do the full route.
There is no denying that the Camino is a religious experience whether you intend it to be or not. There is something about walking across a country with everything on your back that not only humbles you but truly makes you appreciate the beauty of the terrain around you. On the days that it felt like we were climbing a staircase for hours, I just kept telling myself that the view would be worth it and to keep going; every time it was. The hardest day was when we reached our peak elevation but I felt as if I had died and went to heaven. The three of us stared at the window’s screensaver of a view, jaws dropped, enthralled by the beauty of the Spanish countryside. The image is burned in my brain forever and the memories will last a lifetime. What was so difficult in the moment is also the most rewarding experience I’ve had in my life. I’ve found its not really the journey, or the destination, or even the company; its the memories.
Galicia, Spain. June 2024.